![]() ![]() Your car's A/C system is made up of a jungle of wires, switches, relays, and fuses. Make note of puddles of water under your car – this could be a sign of a freezing problem and can help your technician diagnose the problem. This is sometimes called a "flooded" evaporator, a problem that will also leave you with warm air.Īs the system continues to try to modulate the expansion valve or cycle the compressor, the flow rate of the refrigerant can normalize, which is when you might notice the air temperature start to cool again. A large restriction of refrigerant will also result in your A/C blowing warm air.Ĭontrary to what you might think, too much refrigerant flowing into the evaporator doesn't lead to cooler air. A buildup of frost or ice can make the operation even worse inside the system. So cold, in fact, that frost or ice can build on the outside of that part/hardware. ![]() If the valve is blocked, the refrigerant flow could be restricted or could be too unrestricted.Ī slight restriction of refrigerant flow can cause that mechanical part/hardware to get very cold. The expansion valve removes pressure from liquid refrigerant to allow expansion from a liquid to a vapor state in the evaporator. If your A/C flip-flops from hot to cold and back again, your expansion valve could be failing. A damaged, failing, or worn compressor can't properly compress refrigerant in the A/C system to deliver the cool air you crave. When there's a problem with the compressor clutch, your air conditioner won't blow cool air for long. Since it continuously cycles on and off, it's subject to wear and tear every time you use your A/C. It allows the pulley to engage and disengage from engine power so the compressor is only working when needed. Your A/C compressor clutch is one of the most important parts of a vehicle's air conditioning system. A leak in your A/C system could be causing the unit to blow warm air, since there isn't enough refrigerant in the system to cool things down.Įven worse, the acid can corrode the inside of your compressor, spreading metal fragments throughout your A/C system and causing widespread damage, blockage, and component failure. A leak is typically caused by a mixture of moisture and refrigerant that, when combined, creates a corrosive acid that eats away at seals, valves, and hoses in the A/C system. Any number of culprits could be causing your car A/C to blow cold then warm air, including: A Leak in the A/C SystemĪ small refrigerant leak is the most common reason a car's A/C gradually loses its cool. If it feels like your A/C is playing tricks on you and doesn't blow cold air for long, it could be time to bring your A/C problems to your local Firestone Complete Auto Care. Few things feel better than that cool blast of air! But what if your car air conditioner blows cold and then warm air? I do not have the money to have it done by a real mechanic.There’s nothing quite like cranking your car's air conditioning up on a hot summer day. I hope to use two steel banded adjustable clamps on each end to hold the NEW 3/8 flex line on. My problem is I cannot find a direct and NEW replacement for that part and a used one may be just as defective.ġ) Saw off the connector and try to connect over the "nub" ( only one connectors width to work with )Ģ) Try to remove the connector EVEN IF I DAMAGE IT, and slide the line over the connector. I thought about just sawing it off, but instead "can I / should I " REMOVE THE LINE ( which needs a tool that I do not have ) and then just slide the 3 / 8 inch transmission oil cooler line OVER THE CONNECTOR? ![]() I do not like their cheap "quick connect" design, which allows them to have a faster assembly line, but is poor engineering as it degrades and starts to leak with age at the O rings. ( So the dern thang does not fall apart with motion ) This is "the flex line" that interfaces the moving engine / transmission / power train to the rigid and fixed cooling system. I want to replace the transmission cooler line from the hard line to the radiator. ![]()
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